Ac Fan Not Blowing in Low Position Toyota Solara 2000

This 2000 Toyota Camry came in with the complaint that the a/c compressor would cycle on for a second operating theater cardinal, the a/c light would start flashing and the compressor would cycle off. This would happen once during a primal cycle. The most common cause of this general complaint would be the a/c attraction clasp relay. However if the relay was truly at fault the compressor would not engage for a heartbeat and then disengage. It plainly would non turn on at all at around point.

Systematic to test the grassroots system functions a pinafore wire is placed between the two terminals that attend the relay contacts. Therein case they are the two larger terminals that run parallel to each other at one end of the relay. Caution: Jumping the wrong terminals can for good damage the engine computer. With the engine running the a/c compressor should Be on and the a/c light should not be flashing. This would indicate that either the relay or the control cable electric circuit from the computer to the relay is at fault. Therein showcase the light was flashing while the electrical relay was bypassed. The a/c compressor was happening, the pressures were normal and the vent temperature was cold. Caution: Make out not leave the jump shot wire in place for longer than few minutes even if the previous conditions are met. Even less time if those previous conditions were not met. Operating the compressor in this manner is for tryout purposes lone. Compressor damage will occur if this wire is left in situ. The flashing a/c light under this test discipline hind end indicate that there is a problem with the compressor speed sensor.

In testing the compressor speed sensor circuits IT is easiest to begin at the compressor rein in connexion. It is a four cavity right-angled connector with three wires installed. The disastrous/white wire is the command circuit from the electrical relay to the compressor clutch coil. Since the compressor worked when the relay was jumped in the earlier test I knew that it was okay. I moved my focus to the speed detector tour. In the next picture I am showing my exam leads connected to the race sensor terminals inside of the connector physical structure at the compressor. They are the two lower ones.

I had a recitation of 99.2 ohms. I could non find the specifications for a soundly sensing element only IT is within a range that I would expect to go through from experience. My assumption at this point was that the detector was probably non the issue.

I chequered for resistance on the wires that attach to the speed detector. The white/blue wire is routed back to the engine computer and it would make up the wire that carries the signal from the compressor speed sensor support to the locomotive engine computer. In that respect was a reading of 10.23 k ohms betwixt that concluding and battery ground. Again there was no specifications for this, but information technology would non exist an unexpected reading from a figurer electric circuit.

The brown wire but then showed an open circuit to battery primer. When I looked at the wiring diagram it clearly states that this wire is attached to dry land. I checked the brown wire a few inches above the connector and launch the ground signal present.

A soft tug on the wire pulled IT out of the connector trunk. I removed the terminal from the connector body in order to make a repair.

I put-upon this tool to release the impressionable clip that held the terminal in place. There was also a colourless positive assurance clip on the end of the connection that I had to remove first.

I looked through my inventory of connectors and terminals and could not find an photographic catch. So what I did was used the terminal ears that would usually hold the seal in situ and crimped a newfangled wire onto the terminal at that point. Afterwards I slid the seal over the crimped connection and placed it all back into the connector body. I also made sure that the seal was fully inserted into the connecter body past gently ambitious on it with a pocket screwdriver until it was hardened. Simply not so outlying A to expose the revised crimp location.